On the Factory Floor: What It’s Like (Part 2)
(This is part two from my previous posting, "On The Factory Floor: What's It Like?").
When I started my career in apparel with Levi-Strauss, I didn't forsee how far - or to how many overseas factories - my job would take me to…..
To get a little more technical now: suppliers I visit are all along the value chain. These dimensions of the manufacturing process have their own terminology and factories. There's spinning, aka yarn manufacturing, knitting and weaving, dyeing and finishing, and finally cut and sew - which is what people think of when they envision the typical factories that make our clothes. Each one of these conversion points is a specialty, with its own unique factory, which requires specific equipment and machinery, and expert staff on the operation side.
Spinning is a huge operation, super industrial, and pretty high tech. Yarn manufacturing is more technology-driven and requires fewer people. It is also very loud, and in general, very tidy. Knitting and weaving factories are the source for key material inputs, and require their own unique equipment base. Knitting machines are circular, and are isolated in rooms so no “fly” particles escape causing contamination. Weaving machines are basically looms, and are arrayed in open rooms. There can be just a few, to a hundred loom machines in one room. This operation is extremely loud, and you have to wear ear protection where looms do their jobs. As for knits and wovens, the possibilities today are vast - from old school cotton, linen, and wools, to highly technical synthetic fabrics that are thermally bonded. Each one of these requires a different machine to manufacture them.
Dye houses are separate unto themselves. If you're working with the major sources, these buildings are truly cavernous. Proprietary machines finish the fabric, set shrinkage, and create various "hands" (how they feel to the touch). No kidding, these machines can be as big as a house! Dyeing is very water intensive, and requires careful monitoring for environmental compliance. Dye workers wear knee-high rubber boots, and as they move freshly dyed fabric from one operation to the next, the water flows with the process. Here floors are wet, with built-in drains engineered along the length of the dye equipment.
Today there are still artisanal fabric makers who use traditional looms and natural dyes, working in small batches. But almost all of our commercial material manufacturing is highly industrialized, controlled by computers, using advanced equipment made in Germany, Switzerland, Japan, and China.
Garment making, on the other hand, hasn't changed much from the Levi's factory days. Cutting and sewing are still accomplished by individual people, is labor intensive, and requires operation discipline to move the work flow along. Once again, a garment factory is installed with its own specific equipment base.
Here's an insight that applies to every category of factory: an orderly and clean factory indicates how the supplier runs their business in general. For example, a dye house with poor chemical management, or a sew shop with cutting scraps everywhere, is probably sloppy when it comes to other aspects of their operations and fulfillment. A supplier that takes a disciplined, transparent approach on the factory floor typically has better practices throughout its entire business organization.
OK, after hours and miles on your feet, incredible sensory overload, maybe some tough costing negotiations with people using English as a second language - not to mention the ever present jet lag - your factory visit has concluded. It's time for the communal meal. In China, there is no escaping the two hour lunch, it's a matter of courtesy and tradition. This part of factory culture begins in a private room, and the guest of honor will be seated facing the door - it's a feng shui thing. So watch who maneuvers into this position - they have the most power. Now get ready for authentic cooking, by the owner's private chef. You won't be getting any Moo Goo Gai Pan, that's for sure! For myself, as a 98% vegetarian, these meals can sometimes be challenging, i.e., when I request vegetarian food that can mean it contains "only a little bit of pork"! Also, seafood is not vegetarian - how do you politely decline a delicacy from the factory owner's private chef? Another challenge in your long day.
Throughout our factory world, from Asia to the Americas, these formal company meals can be truly amazing, with a diversity of yummy dishes, and there is always something great to eat. However, watch the spicy sauces, and my rule is, if it is not cooked, and you can’t peal it, I don’t eat it. I only drink bottled water when I travel, even brushing my teeth with it, and I’ve managed to stay pretty healthy.
The people who make our clothes globally are the most interesting part of my job. Every country is different, but everywhere I go the people I work with in factories are generally a pleasure to work with, professionals who enjoy the challenge of doing a good job. As a woman in business I appreciate working with the many mid-level and senior managers who are women. It's typical that the upper executives or owners are men, everywhere you go, but the guys are almost always polite and professional. Factory business is tough but mutual respect pays off in the long run for everyone: workers, managers, and overseas customers.
A word about language. English is the international language for business. Rarely do I require an interpreter. Yes, suppliers do discuss negotiating points in their language amongst themselves, before presenting an option or a solution to a challenge. There are times when I do have a local rep with me who speaks the language, who will confirm that negotiating translations are accurate. It's all very positive.
My biggest challenge on factory visits? Suppliers very rarely fire on all cylinders, ie, nobody's perfect all the time. Each country has own challenges, some can be deeply ingrained due to historical and cultural forces. A factory can be great at doing one thing, but need improvement in another area. In the United States we often read about "sweat shop" conditions in factories overseas. Issues like working conditions and environmental compliance are all very real, and not just in overseas factories. But by making a remediation plan, and following it with consistency, most factories can be brought into compliance with industry standards. Solving these challenges, and not just making excellent quality garments, is what makes my work interesting and rewarding.
